ONI X Flâneurs 3X3 インディゴツイル One Wash

Developed over several months with ONI Denim, this first collaboration between the Japanese manufacturer and Flâneurs is built around a fabric created specifically for the project. Rather than working with conventional denim, we chose an approximately 12oz Indigo x Indigo 3x3 twill, constructed from triple-ply yarns and combining two distinct indigo-dyeing techniques. The result is a fabric with remarkable depth, texture and character, while remaining supple and breathable enough for comfortable year-round wear.

Details

• Exclusive ONI Denim x Flâneurs collaboration
• 100% cotton / Approximately 12oz
• One Wash / Pre-washed to minimise shrinkage
• Tailored straight Neat Straight fit
• 3x3 twill fabric
• 8/1 triple-ply warp and weft yarns
• Indigo x Indigo colour
• Indigo Rope-Dyed warp
• Indigo Cheese-Dyed weft
• Indigo-dyed leather patch
• Custom-branded ONI buttons and rivets
• ONI tag stitched onto the right back pocket
• Chain-stitched construction
• Tonal stitching
• Meticulously crafted in Japan for Flâneurs

Description

For our first collaboration with ONI Denim, we wanted to move away from the fabrics for which the manufacturer is best known while retaining one of its defining characteristics: a lively, highly textured material designed to evolve significantly over time. The result is this approximately 12oz 3x3 twill, developed in a deep Indigo x Indigo shade and woven entirely from 8/1 cotton yarn made from three strands twisted together (triple ply).

What makes this fabric particularly distinctive lies as much in its construction as in the way its yarns are dyed. The warp, which predominantly forms the outer face of the fabric, is dyed using the traditional Rope Dyeing method. Bundles of yarn are formed into ropes before being repeatedly immersed in indigo baths and exposed to air for oxidation. The indigo primarily colours the surface of the cotton while leaving a lighter core, allowing increasingly pronounced contrasts to emerge through wear.

The weft uses the same 8/1 triple-ply yarn but is dyed using a different process: Cheese Dyeing (チーズ染め / chīzu zome). Here, the yarn is dyed after being wound onto cylindrical packages, allowing the dye to penetrate the fibres more evenly. This produces a more uniform and stable indigo colour whose evolution differs from that of the rope-dyed warp.

It is precisely the interaction between these two processes that gives the fabric its distinctive character. As the garment is worn and washed, the warp and weft will not evolve at exactly the same rate: the contrasts gradually created by Rope Dyeing develop against the deeper, more uniform colour achieved through Cheese Dyeing. The 3x3 weave and triple-ply yarns further enhance the fabric's texture while providing strength and structure, gradually softening and becoming more comfortable with wear.

Fit & sizing

This One Wash version is based on ONI's 246 Neat Straight, subtly revised for this collaboration. It is a tailored straight fit with a comfortable high rise and a slight rearward tilt. Generous room through the thighs continues naturally down the leg before reaching a relatively neat hem opening, creating a clean silhouette without becoming truly tapered. This balance makes the fit particularly versatile, working equally well in casual outfits or more refined combinations. As this model runs relatively small, we recommend choosing one size above your usual size.

Why we selected it

In this case, it would be more accurate to speak of creation rather than selection. For our first collaboration with ONI Denim, we wanted to develop something that went beyond a simple variation on an existing model, combining the identity of the Japanese manufacturer with our own approach to clothing. Choosing an Indigo x Indigo twill rather than conventional denim allowed us to retain the textile richness associated with ONI while giving the garment a more understated and versatile character. Its deep colour, tonal detailing and Neat Straight fit allow it to take the place of a chino in a more refined outfit, while retaining the construction, ageing potential and distinctive character we look for in Japanese jeans.