ONI / 02506P-SHM "Kiwami" 16oz Type II Denim Jacket

ONI / 02506P-SHM "Kiwami" 16oz Type II Denim Jacket

- Type II denim jacket

- 16oz selvedge denim

- "Ultra Low Tension" weave

- 100% US cotton

- Red and white selvedge ID

- "Rope Dye" indigo dyeing

- Unsanforized but treated with "Tempi" to set the size

- 2 buttoned chest pockets, 2 side pockets, and 2 interior pockets

- Contrasting chain stitch seams

- Oni-branded copper "donut" buttons

- Vegetable-tanned deer leather patch

- Waist adjustment tabs

- Made in Japan

- Size chart: 36/XS, 38/S, 40/M, 42/L, 44/XL

- Exclusively available at Flâneurs for France, in very limited quantities

This season marks the return of one of the most prestigious models from Oni: the "Kiwami." The term "extreme" suits the Kiwami, which is the quintessence of the brand's ingenuity, described by its creator as one of the only fabrics that cannot be replicated elsewhere in the world. Made from naturally beige American cotton with pronounced irregularity, this denim is woven at an ultra-low tension, a highly complex setting mastered only by the most skilled. Combining textured cotton with this weaving method results in a characterful denim with a ribbed and striated appearance.

But even before weaving, the craftsmanship lies in the traditional dyeing technique used, known as "Kase," which traditionally involves dyeing the cotton before spinning it, alternating indigo baths and oxidation periods at various levels to achieve a wide range of blue shades from the deepest to the brightest. This technique usually produces fabrics resistant to fading, which change very little over time. In this case, Oishi-San has managed to combine this artisanal method with the more widespread "rope dyeing" technique. Since the cotton is spun before dyeing, its core retains its natural clarity, which will re-emerge with wear, offering the denim a beautifully nuanced patina.

The 02506P-SHM from ONI is a "Type II" denim jacket. The Type II denim jacket is a historical model created by Levi's in 1953. It differs from the Type I, the first denim jacket introduced in the early 1900s, by the addition of a second twin pocket at the front and the removal of the cinch back. It features a "boxy" cut accentuated by double pleats on the front, a straighter drop, and a slightly shorter length that sits on the hips.

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