ONI Denim holds a unique place in the world of Japanese denim. Behind the brand is Masao Oishi, Oishi-san, a true denim enthusiast who has devoted more than sixty years of his life to denim and the development of distinctive fabrics.
Going against the conventions of the contemporary fashion industry, Oishi-san has always remained extremely discreet. Few interviews, little communication and deliberately limited distribution: the focus remains firmly on fabric development and production. This discretion has naturally contributed to ONI’s almost mysterious reputation, but it is above all the fabrics themselves that have established the brand among enthusiasts of Japanese selvedge denim.
ONI became particularly renowned for its 20 oz Secret Denim, a heavyweight yet remarkably supple fabric distinguished by irregular yarns and an extremely low-tension weave. This exploration of texture has become one of Oishi-san’s signatures. Secret Denim, Crushed Concrete, Low Tension, Bumpy, Kasuri, Nep and Kiraku each explore yarn, dyeing, loom tension and weaving in different ways to create fabrics with their own distinctive texture and ageing characteristics.
Our relationship with ONI Denim has developed gradually over the years. We have had the opportunity to meet Oishi-san several times in Japan, notably in Chiba, and to speak directly with him about his work and fabric developments. This close relationship now allows us to offer a particularly broad selection of ONI fabrics and fits in France, ranging from the brand’s established classics to much more limited productions.
This relationship eventually led to our first ONI × Flâneurs collaboration in 2025. For the project, we worked on an exclusive fabric unlike the denim normally associated with the brand: a 3×3 indigo twill combining a Rope Dyed warp with a Cheese Dyed weft, developed in two different finishes, One Wash and BioWash. The collaboration reflects the same philosophy behind our ONI selection: exploring fabric while respecting Oishi-san’s expertise and distinctive approach.
ONI Denim perfectly embodies what we appreciate about Japanese denim: distinctive fabrics, demanding Made in Japan manufacturing, a genuine product culture and jeans designed to evolve and reveal their character through time and wear.