"SURE MFG" Nasvy Anorak

XX Development "SURE MFG" Nasvy Anorak

• 100% Kibata cotton
• Dense textured cotton twill
• Pigment dyeing
• Waldes Camlock N°5 zipper
• Multiple adjustment drawstrings
• Large deep hood
• 2 large side flap pockets
• Made in Japan

The Japanese label XX Development, led by creators Taichi and Kentaro, offers with its "SURE MFG" line garments inspired by American vintage models that have been meticulously studied to reproduce them as faithfully as possible. This anorak is no exception and brilliantly mixes the brand's creative spirit with original military specifications.

From the military world, the features reproduced include the loose and short cut, the large and deep hood, numerous adjustment drawstrings scattered throughout the jacket, and the 2 large side flap pockets. All these original details have remained unchanged, meeting the ergonomic and comfort needs of the time. However, the anorak that inspired this model was a pullover jacket, not a zippered one. It was only after cutting it down the center and adding a zipper from an old leather jacket that the idea of making a zippered version came to be. For the zipper, the choice was made for a Waldes made in Japan, a zipper that can be clipped to prevent it from opening.

The expertise and meticulousness known to XX Development is also found in the fabric used for this anorak. The analysis of the original fabric showed a №16 warp thread and a №10 weft thread, along with an unusual weaving angle, designed at the time to compensate for the fabric's twisting when it shrinks after washing. To come as close as possible to the original fabric, XX Development created a twill called SURE 1610 TWILL, made from a naturally ecru Kibata cotton, woven as is, without any treatment or transformation.

The final step in the design process is the dyeing, done here in a pigment vat to only dye the surface of the fabric, allowing it to evolve and patinate over time. All the steps and techniques of making this anorak are designed so that it can be found in thrift stores many years later, after having lived and become a vintage piece just like the model that inspired it.