"SURE MFG" Lemony Anorak

XX Development "SURE MFG" Lemony Anorak

• 100% Kibata cotton
• Textured dense cotton twill
• Pigment dyeing
• Waldes Camlock N°5 zipper
• Multiple adjustment drawstrings
• Large deep hood
• 2 large flap side pockets
• Made in Japan

The Japanese label XX Development, led by creators Taichi and Kentaro, offers with its "SURE MFG" range garments inspired by vintage American models that have been meticulously studied to replicate them as faithfully as possible. This anorak is no exception, skillfully blending the brand's creative spirit with the original military specifications.

From the military world, the features replicated include the loose and short fit, the wide and deep hood, the numerous adjustment drawstrings scattered around the jacket, and the 2 large flap side pockets. All these original details remain unchanged, meeting the ergonomic and comfort needs of the time. However, the anorak that inspired this model was a pullover jacket, not a zip-up. It was only after cutting it down the middle and adding the zipper from an old leather jacket that the idea to create a zip-up version was born. For the zipper, the choice was made for a Waldes made in Japan, a zipper that can be clipped to prevent it from opening.

The expertise and meticulousness known to XX Development is also evident in the fabric used for this anorak. Analysis of the original fabric revealed a #16 warp thread and a #10 weft thread, as well as an unusual weaving angle, designed at the time to counteract the fabric's twist when it shrinks after washing. To get as close as possible to the original fabric, XX Development created a twill called SURE 1610 TWILL, made from a naturally ecru Kibata cotton, woven as is, without any treatment or transformation.

The final step in the design process is the dyeing, done here in a pigment vat to only dye the surface of the fabric, allowing it to evolve and patina over time. All the steps and techniques used to make this anorak are designed so that it can be found in thrift stores many years from now, after having lived and become a vintage piece just like the model that inspired it.