Informale X Flâneurs J002 Indigo Sashiko Jungle Jacket

Genesis of the Project

After launching our new website, what better than a new collaboration to kick off the year 2024?

After our collaboration with Momotaro, released in December, we are excited to present today a new project that is close to our hearts with the Australian brand Informale and its creator, Steve Calder, who has graciously agreed to participate in a short Question/Answer (Q&A).

At first glance, these two brands may seem quite different, the tradition of Japanese denim with Momotaro and a wardrobe inspired by sartorial elegance with Informale, but as you read these lines, you will see that they are more connected than they appear through this new collaboration.

At Informale, two iconic products are revisited season after season:

• First, the T005, an elegant and comfortable linen trouser, which was part of a previous collaboration. With this "Dark Eucalyptus" color, we began expanding the variations of the T005 last season and can already announce that the Spring/Summer 2024 collection will feature 2 new exclusive colors alongside the 5 classic colors of the collection.

Informale x Flâneurs T005 Dark Eucalyptus

• Next, the J002, an iconic Jungle Jacket revisited with meticulously crafted cut and proportions. First introduced in 1963 (version called "First Pattern") and intended for American troops during the Vietnam War (1955 - 1975), its design was revised in 1964 and 1966, the year the material shifted from cotton to a 50/50 polycotton (Ripstop fabric) for mass production starting in 1969. Informale chose to revisit the 1964 version ("Second Pattern") to give it a casual/sartorial look that immediately became a huge success.

Informale J002 Jungle Jacket Olive

For this new partnership, we opted for the second option: the J002 Jungle Jacket. This jacket perfectly represents the DNA of Informale, and we wanted to offer a version that aligns with the DNA of Flâneurs. By maintaining the design, which we view as perfect, of the original model, the idea was to find a fabric that lives up to the canvas used on the J002 in its Olive color, a rigid material that adds structure to the jacket as well as guarantees great durability and a unique patina. As one might expect, an indigo-dyed fabric seemed most appropriate. Thus, we directed our search towards Japanese manufacturers, a choice further justified by the geographical proximity of Australia and Japan.

Fabric Selection

We found the ideal material at Collect Co. We had the opportunity to visit their showroom in Kojima, Okayama prefecture, a paradise for lovers of fine materials. For those familiar, the name will ring a bell. Collect Co. is the oldest branch of the Japan Blue Co. Ltd. group, which includes the fabric manufacturer Collect Mill and the brands Japan Blue Jeans and Momotaro! Thus, coming full circle.

Fabric samples at Collect

After various trials, samples, and discussions with Steve, we settled on a magnificent Sashiko fabric weighing approximately 450g/m² (about 13.5oz) with a low-tension jacquard weave, all combined with a deep indigo dye.

This fabric offers many advantages, starting with the balance between thickness and flexibility. Indeed, thanks to its low-tension weaving on old Jacquard looms, it provides natural flexibility and great breathability. The honeycomb weave of the Sashiko also gives it a textured, "bumpy" appearance. Having undergone indigo dyeing using the "rope dyeing" technique, the cotton threads have retained their white core, which, over time, through friction and washing, will emerge through the indigo to offer a unique patina typical of this historic Japanese fabric.

Close-up on the honeycomb weave of Sashiko

Results and Discussion with Steve Calder

As Steve mentioned in the Q&A he gave us, we did not know what to expect when mixing "Casual Tailoring" inspirations from Informale with traditional Japanese fabric. To say the least, the outcome has exceeded our expectations. The design of the J002 perfectly complements the quality of the sashiko, with the fabric's weight providing a crisp, clean drape that adds character to this jacket, promising great durability and a unique natural evolution.

For the photos, we gave free rein to the team at Informale:

And of course, in honor of this new collaboration, who better to talk about Informale and this project than Steve Calder himself!

Here then is the result of the Q&A we have concocted for you:

Flâneurs: Can you briefly introduce yourself (before Informale)?

Steve: I was born in New Zealand and moved to Australia when I was 12 years old. I've been in the menswear industry since I was 15, starting at a small local shop and working my way up to a good position at an Italian Tailoring house, where I found my love for tailoring and design. My first company sold handmade suits "Sur Mesure" from Naples, Italy. I loved it and learned many hard lessons which we later applied to Informale.

F: Can you briefly introduce us to Informale?

S: My wife Jordana and I launched Informale in 2018 with one pair of trousers, the T005. Since then, the brand has grown quite a lot, with stockists around the world and our new flagship boutique in Melbourne. We focus on "Casual Tailoring," which means relaxed and comfortable clothing with some sartorial elements. We take inspiration from military and workwear garments in the cut, sewing techniques, and fabrics which all combine to develop a beautiful character as the garments are worn. We care deeply about local craft and small batch manufacturing, so most of our clothing is made in our hometown within a 30-minute drive from our office.

F: How do you feel about the success of Informale? Did you plan to have your brand exported and sold abroad?

S: We're quite surprised at how well received the brand has been around the world. We didn't know what to expect at the beginning, except that it was probably just a side project that complemented my tailoring business at the time. We hoped that selling online and via Instagram would result in some overseas sales, but thought that most of our clientele would be local. We now have aspirations to grow the brand even further in Australia and worldwide, although at a slow and steady pace that our small workshops can handle!

F: How do you feel about menswear today?

S: I think there are two main forces competing at the moment. The first is the fast fashion machine which is pretending to be ethical and eco-friendly but truly isn't either of those things. The second is the niche of enthusiast clothing expanding into the mainstream, which is in fact ethical and eco-friendly, but is typically quieter due to the lack of margin to compete with big marketing campaigns. I believe eventually, quality always wins!

F: What are your thoughts about this new collaboration? Do you see yourself in this mix of styles and inspirations?

S: I think this collaboration is the perfect blend of a fabric very Flâneurs, with a design very Informale. I was honestly unsure about how it would turn out at the beginning, because we had never worked with a fabric like this before, but started to get really excited when we made the first sample. It's a very fresh take on the J002 and I couldn't be happier with how it turned out. I'm actually very grateful that your team pushed us and our local workshop to try something different, and hope that everyone who orders one enjoys it as much as I have!