A Factory at the Heart of Breton Craftsmanship
Since the 1920s, the factory Le Minor embodies Breton excellence in the art of knitting. Located in Guidel, in Morbihan, it has specialized in the making of sailor sweaters and woolen clothing, becoming a symbol of Breton textile heritage. With craftsmanship passed down from generation to generation, Le Minor combines tradition and innovation today to offer pieces of exceptional quality.
It is this shared vision, blending a passion for craftsmanship and attention to detail, that gave birth to our collaboration. Two exclusive pieces, evidence of a shared philosophy: to offer timeless clothing, rooted in strong values and designed to transcend eras.
Le Minor : A Story of Transmission
Le Minor was born in a context where Breton clothing, such as sailor shirts and naval sweaters, were gaining popularity due to their robustness and timeless aesthetics. As an official supplier to the French Navy for decades, the manufacturer built its reputation on the quality and durability of its creations.
In the 1970s, at its peak, Le Minor employed nearly 250 people, demonstrating its success and its central role in the Breton textile industry. After overcoming the sector's crises which had reduced its workforce to just about twenty people, the factory is now experiencing a true renaissance, currently employing 62 collaborators.
This revival was made possible by Sylvain Flet and Jérôme Permingeat taking over the brand in 2018. Driven by a clear ambition, they managed to preserve the heritage of Le Minor while infusing a contemporary dynamic. Their vision is based on three pillars:
- The transmission of know-how Training and mentoring are at the heart of their approach to sustaining artisanal techniques.
- Stylistic innovation The brand, while remaining true to its classics, offers modern and urban pieces, such as merino wool hoodies.
- A sustainable commitment : Use of natural materials (merino wool, cotton), refusal of synthetic blends, and development of a second-hand offering.
An Obvious Collaboration
In 2021, we integrate the parts Le Minor in our selection, drawn by the quality and authenticity of the brand. The geographical proximity quickly facilitated exchanges, paving the way for an idea that would naturally impose itself: designing together an exclusive collection, at the intersection of our respective universes. During our first visit to the Guidel workshop, we were able to dive into the brand's universe and observe each step of the manufacturing process up close.
The brand stands out for its complete mastery of the production chain, ensuring local and integrated manufacturing:
- Knitting and cutting Made on-site using threads from the Vosges and the Pyrenees.
- Manual assembly The seamstresses perpetuate gestures passed down through generations.
- Ethics No processes are outsourced, reinforcing the authenticity of the Made in France label.
This mastery makes from Le Minor a recognized player in artisanal luxury, particularly appreciated in Japan, where its expertise and high-end products enjoy great success. It also allows the brand to gain long-coveted recognition, namely the acquisition of the label. Living Heritage Company.
A Strong Connection with Japan
Like Flâneurs, , Le Minor maintains a privileged relationship with Japan, a country where the demand for quality and the attachment to timeless products are paramount. In 2018, nearly 85% of the brand's revenue came from the Japanese market. Although this share has now decreased to 65%, Japan remains their main market, ahead of France and rapidly expanding countries like the United Kingdom.
The creations Le Minor are captivating with their understated aesthetics and meticulous craftsmanship, in harmony with a local tradition that values functional simplicity. This strong connection with Japan has naturally influenced our collaboration, guiding our stylistic and technical choices.
A Year of Work for Two Exclusive Pieces
After a year of exchanges, sketches, and prototypes, our collaboration with Le Minor gave birth to two unique pieces, the result of a dialogue between traditional Japanese wardrobe and the Breton expertise of the Guidel workshops.
This project, led by Peter, the manager of the stores Flâneurs, and Sylvain, co-manager of Le Minor, was carefully matured. Three main themes guided our reflections: the influence of Japan, the durability and timelessness of the sailor sweater, and the modernity of the iconic marinière.
As with our previous collaborations, the process began with numerous sketches, the first step in bringing our ideas to life. Each prototype then underwent meticulous adjustments, enriched by hours of discussion and reflection.
This has resulted in two original works, inspired by the connection we cultivate with Japan, while remaining deeply rooted in our respective identities.
1. The Milano Knit Noragi Jacket
For several seasons, our collections have featured jackets inspired by traditional Japanese attire, such as the Noragi "or the" Haori. .
These jackets appeal for their minimalist cuts, versatility, and ability to adapt to all seasons. Their generous volume allows them to be worn over a warm piece in winter as well as with a simple t-shirt in summer. Crafted from traditional Japanese fabrics, often dyed in indigo like sashiko, they offer a richness of texture and a unique character.
Another iconic piece inspired this project: the shawl collar cardigan. A timeless symbol of men's wardrobe, it owes much of its popularity to cinema, where it became a classic thanks to icons like Steve McQueen. He made it a symbol of modern masculinity, combining elegance and casualness.
For this collaboration with Le Minor, we wanted to merge these two icons of the men's wardrobe.
Our Milano knit vest reimagines these classics with a minimalist and contemporary approach.
We envisioned this vest as a streamlined interpretation of the shawl collar cardigan. By simplifying the neckline, we opted for clean lines that enhance its elegance and versatility.
The design of the pockets was conceived to offer more comfort in use. Lined with cotton, they provide a pleasant feel and increased durability, while remaining discreet to preserve the minimalist aesthetic of the piece.
The scarf collar, thicker and knitted in a distinct stitch, adds weight to this part of the vest, ensuring a straight and clean drape. The neckline, high enough, protects the neck while allowing for easy layering of bulky items, like a hoodie.
To enhance its minimalist spirit, we opted for a drawstring instead of the traditional buttonhole.
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Knitted fabric Milan, This vest combines a dense and refined texture, ensuring excellent support. The choice of wool also guarantees great durability, making this piece an essential that is easy to maintain, wear, and enjoy throughout the seasons.
We have chosen three distinct wool colors:
- Marine A classic navy, in a deep midnight blue, that echoes the other pieces of the nautical wardrobe. Le Minor. It is undoubtedly the easiest color to match.
- Persimmon A heathered olive green, a refined shade that makes an excellent alternative for those who already have a collection of navy blue in their wardrobe.
- Beige A mottled clay tone, understated and elegant, which adds a touch of brightness. This shade, lighter than the others, also evokes the natural and raw color of wool.
2. The Loose Fit Breton Shirt
To make this collaboration even more unique, we also worked on a second piece, arguably the most iconic at Le MinorIt seems like your message is empty. How can I assist you today? the sailor shirt.
We have selected a fabric with an exceptional weight – approximately 380 g/m² - which is between a light sweatshirt and a t-shirt. This remarkable weight is unique to Le Minor, the only ones in France to produce such a grammage.
This fabric is knitted on a "gauge 14" machine from the 1960s, a rare piece of equipment whose maintenance depends on artisanal interventions, as spare parts are no longer manufactured. This mechanical machine, configured to produce traditional navy stripes or solid colors, embodies a valuable expertise that has contributed to the EPV (Living Heritage Company) label.
The cotton used is an "open-end" yarn, also known as "rope yarn" in English, often used for strings or shoelaces. Its dry and rough texture evokes the authenticity of real Breton sailor shirts, while offering great durability that allows the garment to age gracefully over time. This cotton is spun in France, and by choice, it is carded rather than combed: a tribute to local craftsmanship and a technique that gives an additional uniqueness to this piece.
In terms of design, we have revisited the cut to give it a very boxy look: a square shape, dropped shoulders, a wide bust, and a slightly shorter length. The almond collar, iconic to sailor shirts, has been redesigned with a narrower opening to modernize the whole. We are offering this revamped version in four color combinations:
- Black / Ecru
- Camel / Dark Navy
- Khaki / Sand
- Gypsy / Black
Precise and Meticulous Craftsmanship
"At" or "In the home of" depending on the context. If you need further translation or context, please provide more details. Le Minor, the making is done in small agile teams - not in assembly lines - where versatility is essential. Each piece is a testament to a meticulous artisanal process:
- The sailor shirt goes through 8 assembly stages, besides cutting and inspection.
- The cardigan, more complex, requires no fewer than 22 steps of fabrication.
For wool items:
- Each part (back, sleeves, collar, etc.) is knitted separately.
- They are then stabilized by careful spraying on beating boards, ensuring the hold and preventing any future shrinkage.
- Finally, they are cut into shape for precise assembly, according to the method of the cut-and-sewn, alternative to whole garment knitting.
A Collection Designed for the Long Term
Souple et légère du cardigan. Milan structured jacket, creating a subtle balance between comfort, style, and functionality.
This collaboration highlights essential values: local artisanal manufacturing, inspired designs, and durability that encourages consuming less but better.
Exclusively at Le Minor Paris (50 Rue des Francs Bourgeois), Flâneurs Rennes and on our respective websites.
