Revival Denim
For the past two years, a discreet yet passionate collaboration has been growing between Flâneurs and XX Development.
For those who may have missed it, XX Development is a Japanese manufacturer that brings together several distinct labels: No Comply Jeans, Sure MFG, and Wico and Pals.
Pony, Jasmine, and Bouzu (the "Sewing Boys") are three true enthusiasts, always in search of the perfect piece! On one hand influenced by vintage American clothing, and on the other by Japanese manufacturing quality, they focus on limited, original, and carefully crafted production.
Completely unknown in France and Europe, we started collaborating with Taichi (Pony) in 2022, and Sure MFG and No Comply Jeans quickly became highly appreciated labels in our selection. They champion a particular vision of fashion: no collections, but rather a succession of production projects driven by inspiration and the mood of the moment.
The origin of this project dates back to a conversation in July 2023 with Taichi about the idea of using a fabric more textured than those in the No Comply Jeans collection. That idea instantly took him back to his early days, reminding him of the very first pair of jeans he ever made—over twenty years ago.
He then sent us that one-of-a-kind piece, which we were able to photograph below:
The origins of this project go back to Pony’s early days, before XX Development even existed.
Here’s how he tells the story, with all the humor and spontaneity that define him:
"When he was young, Pony made a living hemming jeans.
Since his business was still very small, he didn’t have much money and used to buy fabric in thrift stores.
One day, buried under a mountain of fabric, he came across a very special denim...
He used it as a sample, took some orders, and that’s how XX Development started.
When he launched his own brand, he made a great French friend.
Listening to his friend’s tastes, he thought the jeans he made back then would be perfect.
‘Yes! That’s exactly it!’ said the French guy, so Pony started searching for the fabric’s original maker to buy more.
This fabric, made with a special method, takes an enormous amount of time to weave. Of course, there’s no substitute."
About this fabric
"This is a selvedge denim, so of course it’s woven on a traditional shuttle loom.
But what really makes it special is the slub effect — those irregularities in the yarn.
The fabric is created by slowly weaving a loosely twisted yarn, at the gentle pace of an old loom.
In fact, this denim was developed several years ago for an overseas market.
The intention wasn’t to replicate vintage denim, but rather to explore a more original approach.
What I find particularly successful is that, even though it’s denim, it conveys a subtle and distinctive Japanese aesthetic."
A challenge was born: revive this material to bring back the spirit of that very first pair of jeans!
Original samples
So Taichi got in touch with the original manufacturer to restart production of the fabric—and nearly a year later, the rolls finally arrived:
This unique fabric, revived especially for this collaboration, will give rise to three distinct fits: Relaxed Tapered, Regular, and Wide.
Many prototypes were needed before reaching final approval during our last visit to Gifu, the city where XX Development is located.
Production is nearly complete—only the finishing touches remain, such as the leather patch and flasher. We were lucky enough to wear the first samples for several months, which allowed us to truly appreciate the uniqueness of this fabric. It’s bound to become a key piece in our selection next season. We’ll be sharing some images soon to give you a sense of this denim’s fading potential.
Here are some pictures taken throughout the design and production process:
Photos taken during our last visit in October 2024:
This collaboration marks a special milestone for Flâneurs: it’s the first time we’ve helped revive an old fabric, brought back to life specifically for a shared project. A deep, meaningful effort that goes beyond a typical partnership to resurrect a unique material and create something truly singular.
In the coming weeks, we’ll be sharing images, details, and impressions from this unique project.
We don’t yet know the exact number of pieces that will be produced for this limited collaboration, but it should be around 200 to 250 jeans in total.
If this project speaks to you, you can already register your email on the three product pages below by clicking on “Notify me when the product is available.”