122S "Violet Weft" Relaxed Tapered 15oz Stretch Selvedge Denim

ONI DENIM / 122S "Violet Weft" Relaxed Tapered 15oz Stretch Selvedge Denim

- 98% cotton / 2% polyurethane / 15oz

- Stretch Denim

- Relaxed Tapered fit

- Unsanforized but treated with "Tempi" to set the size

- "Ultra Low Tension" weaving

- Indigo denim overdyed in violet

- Red and white selvedge ID

- Back pockets with hidden rivets

- Riveted stress points

- Reinforced belt loops

- Vegetable-tanned deer leather patch

- Made in Japan

ONI is a mysterious label behind which hides a true enthusiast who has dedicated 60 years of his life to denim. Always striving for perfection, Oishi-san is in constant search and devoted solely to production. This is why you will not find a website or an official Instagram page for the brand. It is also for this reason that the label is distributed only in a few stores around the world and exclusively at Flâneurs for France.

The "122S Violet Weft" represents the innovation that ONI brings to the world of selvedge denim. Weighing 15oz, this model is made comfortable right from the start by incorporating 2% polyurethane during the weaving process, a synthetic material more durable than common elastane which gives the fabric inherent flexibility. Not just focusing on comfort, Oishi also chose to use overdyeing, a technique of dyeing a fabric that has already been dyed. Here, the classic indigo base is paired with a purple overdye, mostly visible on the inside but adding extra depth to the exterior. Over time and with washing, this purple shade will blend with the indigo to reveal a uniquely distinct patina.

This type of fabric cannot be manufactured on modern machines. Indeed, to produce this kind of fabric, shuttle looms are set to a very low tension level. This specific setting, called "low tension", literally makes the machines shake during the denim's production. By combining this weaving technique with the use of cotton thread of naturally irregular thickness, the result is a denim even more textured than a classic "slub", with inherent suppleness and comfortable relaxation. However, due to the difficulty in mastering this technique, few manufacturers venture into it, but ONI has managed to distinguish itself with a unique fabric whose quality is proven.

The 122S is a Relaxed Tapered cut, with a medium rise that fits snugly, followed by a comfortable thigh opening and a taper from the knee to the lower leg. Due to the stretchy nature of the fabric, this version of the Relaxed Tapered is more fitted than the 100% cotton versions.

This model is delivered in One Wash (treated with "Tempi"), washed once and then sun-dried in Japan, thus setting the size while bringing out the unique texture of the fabric.