200CCD-MOCA 15oz Wide Straight "Moca" Crushed Concrete Denim

ONI 15oz Wide Straight Moca Crushed Concrete Denim

• 100% American cotton / 15oz
• Pre-washed to prevent shrinkage
• Wide straight cut / High waist
• Indigo / Moca dye
• Black/orange/green selvedge edge
• Chain stitch seams
• Hidden rivets in back pockets
• Rivets and buttons branded with ONI
• Patch made of vegetable-tanned sheep leather
• Woven and manufactured in Japan

ONI is a mysterious label behind which hides a true enthusiast who has devoted 60 years of his life to denim. Always in pursuit of perfection, Oishi-san is in constant search and dedicates himself solely to production. This is why you will not find a website or an official Instagram page for the brand. It is also for this reason that the label is distributed only in a few shops around the world and exclusively at Flâneurs for France. For this reissue of Crushed Concrete, the Demon brand offers a Moca version that adopts the typical "greencast" indigo dye for the warp (outer) thread, combined with a coppery "Moca" dye for the weft (inner) thread.

Now an iconic fabric of the Japanese label, the Crushed Concrete is based on the Secret Super Rough, revisited in a lighter 15oz version made from the same warp and weft threads, thus achieving the typical slub and neppy texture. For this version of Crushed Concrete, ONI has chosen to pay homage to Kabuki, a traditional Japanese theater known for its spectacular acting, often accompanied by dramatic makeup and staging. For this, the usual pink selvedge edge is presented in the colors of Kabuki theater curtains: black, orange, and green.

This type of fabric is impossible to produce on modern machines, as the shuttle looms must be set at very low tension to create this fabric. This low tension, called "low tension", literally makes the machines vibrate during the denim production. By combining this weaving technique with the use of a naturally irregular thread, the fabric becomes even more textured than a classic slub. However, few manufacturers dare venture into this, as the technique is difficult to master.

The Japanese "Tempi" treatment (sun washing and drying) also adds character to the fabric and makes it more comfortable, while significantly reducing the risk of shrinkage that is generally observed on non-sanforized fabrics like this one. Moreover, fabrics woven at low tension often experience significant relaxation, quickly gaining flexibility and comfort.

The 200 is a "Wide Straight" cut that features a high waist along with a straight, wide leg from thigh to ankle.