Oni is a mysterious label behind which hides a true enthusiast who has devoted 60 years of his life to denim. Always in search of perfection, Oishi-san is perpetually researching and dedicates himself solely to production. That is why you will not find a website or an official Instagram page for the brand. This is also why the label is only distributed in a few stores around the world and only at Flâneurs in France.
The "20 oz Secret Denim" is the most iconic jeans at ONI. It is largely thanks to this fabric that the Japanese label has built its reputation among selvedge enthusiasts around the world.
If you have ever tried a selvedge above 18 oz, you would certainly expect to have to break in the fabric for a few weeks before achieving a minimum level of comfort.
One of the strengths of the Secret Denim is its texture; despite being 20oz thick, this fabric has a supple texture and a slightly fluffy feel, making it comfortable to wear from the first fitting.
This kind of fabric cannot be produced on modern machines, because to make this type of fabric, shuttle looms are set to a very low level of tension. This lower tension setting, called "low tension," literally makes the machines shake during the manufacturing of the denim. By combining this weaving technique with the use of a naturally irregular yarn, it makes the material even more textured than a classic slub. However, few manufacturers take the risk, as it is a difficult technique to master.
The Japanese treatment "Tempi" (a wash and sun drying) also gives it more character and makes the fabric more comfortable while significantly reducing the shrinking effect that can occur with an unsanforized fabric like this one.
Another distinctive aspect of Secret Denim is its unique color. To achieve this particular shade, the weft thread is dyed ("rope dye") in indigo and the weft thread is a dyed beige cotton.
This results in a unique blue/green shade that, over time, develops a patina unlike any other.
Straight / Straight Cuts
From the widest to the most fitted (from left to right):
200ZR / Very high waist with a generous back rise, wide straight leg from thigh to ankle
288ZR-SV / High waist, deep rise, and straight cut from thigh to leg opening, reminiscent of the traditional straight cuts that have marked the history of denim
246ZR / Classic straight fitted cut, with a high and comfortable waist, a good back rise, and ease at the thigh extending down the leg for an overall straight drape
Tapered / Tapered Cuts
From the straightest to the most fitted (from left to right):
902ZR / High waist with a snug fit, followed by a comfortable thigh opening ending in a tapered fall from the knee to the bottom of the leg
622ZR / Mid-high waist with a snug fit, followed by a comfortable thigh opening ending in a tapered fall from the knee to the bottom of the leg
544ZR / Mid-high waist, with a comfortable back rise. The fall is fitted at the thigh and knee ending in a semi-narrow leg opening
679ZR / High waist, with a comfortable thigh opening followed by a strongly tapered fall from the knee, resulting in a very narrow opening.
