02527P-CCD 15oz Type III Jacket Kabuki Crushed Concrete Denim

ONI Type III 15oz Kabuki Crushed Concrete Denim Jean Jacket

• Material: 100% cotton
• Weight: 15oz
• One Wash (pre-washed)
• Low Tension Weave
• Black/orange/green selvedge ID
• Chain stitch seams
• 2 buttoned chest pockets
• 2 side pockets
• 2 interior pockets
• Contrasting chain stitch seams
• Copper "donut" buttons branded Oni
• Vegetable-tanned deer leather patch
• Waist adjustment tabs
• Made in Japan

ONI is a mysterious label behind which hides a true enthusiast who has devoted 60 years of his life to denim. Always in pursuit of perfection, Oishi-san is in constant search and dedicates himself solely to production. That's why you won't find a website or an official Instagram page for the brand. It is also for this reason that the label is distributed only in a few stores around the world and exclusively at Flâneurs for France.

Now an iconic fabric of the Japanese label, the Crushed Concrete Denim is based on the Secret Super Rough, revisited in a lighter 15oz version made from the same warp and weft yarns, thus achieving the typical slub and neppy texture. For this version of the Crushed Concrete Denim, ONI has chosen to pay tribute to Kabuki, a traditional Japanese theater with spectacular acting, often accompanied by dramatic makeup and stage settings. For this, the usual pink selvedge ID is presented in the colors of Kabuki theater curtains: black, orange, and green.

This type of fabric is impossible to produce on modern machines, as the shuttle looms must be set at a very low tension to create this fabric. This low tension, called "low tension", literally makes the machines vibrate during the denim's production. By combining this weaving technique with the use of a naturally irregular yarn, the fabric becomes even more textured than a classic slub. However, few manufacturers dare to venture there, as this technique is difficult to master.

The Japanese "Tempi" treatment (a sun wash and drying) also adds character to the fabric and makes it more comfortable, while significantly reducing the risk of shrinkage usually seen with non-sanforized fabrics like this one. Here, as the cotton threads are finer than those used in the Secret Super Rough Denim, the indigo dye is slightly darker and more intense, which will also allow for more pronounced fading through wear and washing.

Today, the Type III jean jacket, much revisited, is the most widespread model worldwide. Its cut is more fitted and longer than the Type I and Type II models. For the 02527P-CCD, Oni has stayed true to the original pattern by simply adding two side hand warmer pockets and 2 interior pockets.