902-CCD 15oz High Rise Relaxed Tapered Kabuki Crushed Concrete Denim

ONI 15oz Kabuki Crushed Concrete Denim High Rise Relaxed Tapered Jeans

• Material: 100% American cotton
• Weight: 15oz (medium)
• One Wash (pre-washed)
• High Rise Relaxed Tapered fit
• Black/orange/green selvedge ID
• Chain stitch seams
• Hidden rivets at back pockets
• Universal rivets and buttons branded ONI
• Vegetable-tanned sheep leather patch
• Woven and manufactured in Japan

ONI is a mysterious label behind which hides a true enthusiast who has dedicated 60 years of his life to denim. Always in pursuit of perfection, Oishi-san continuously seeks improvement and is solely dedicated to production. This is why you won’t find a website or an official Instagram page for the brand. It is also for this reason that the label is distributed only in select boutiques around the world and exclusively at Flâneurs in France.

Now an iconic fabric of the Japanese label, the Crushed Concrete Denim is based on the Secret Super Rough but revisited in a lighter 15oz version made from the same warp and weft threads, thus achieving the typical slub and neppy texture. For this version of the Crushed Concrete Denim, ONI has chosen to pay homage to Kabuki, a traditional Japanese theater with spectacular acting and stagecraft. For this, the usual pink selvedge ID is presented in the colors of Kabuki theater curtains: black, orange, and green.

This type of fabric cannot be produced on modern machines, as the shuttle looms need to be set at very low tension to create this fabric. This low tension, called "low tension," literally makes the machines vibrate during the denim manufacturing process. By combining this weaving technique with the use of a naturally irregular thread, the fabric becomes even more textured than a classic slub. However, few manufacturers dare to venture there, as this technique is difficult to master.

The Japanese treatment "Tempi" (a wash and sun drying) also adds character to the fabric and makes it more comfortable, while significantly reducing the risk of shrinkage usually seen with unsanforized fabric like this. Here, as the cotton threads are finer than those used in the Secret Super Rough Denim, the indigo dye is slightly darker and more intense, which will also allow for more pronounced fading over time with wear and washing.

The 902 "High Rise Relaxed Tapered" is a contemporary fit, with a snug high waist followed by a comfortable thigh opening, tapering down from the knee to the lower leg. This model is delivered in One Wash, washed once and then sun-dried in Japan, thus setting the size while bringing out the depth of the indigo and the characteristic feel of slubby fabrics.