622ZR-BKBK 20oz "Secret Black Denim" Relaxed Tapered

ONI 622ZR-BK 20oz "Secret Black Denim" Relaxed Tapered Jeans

• 100% US cotton / 20oz
• Deadstock Denim
• Relaxed Tapered cut
• Unsanforized but treated with "Tempi" to set the size
• "Ultra Low Tension" weave
• Red and white selvedge ID
• Black sulfur-dyed weft and warp threads
• Back pockets with hidden rivets
• Riveted stress points
• Reinforced belt loops
• Vegetable-tanned deer leather patch
• Made in Japan

ONI is a mysterious label created by a true denim enthusiast who has devoted 60 years of his life to denim. Always striving for perfection, Oishi-san constantly seeks improvement and focuses solely on production. That's why you won't find a website or an official Instagram page for the brand. It is also the reason why the label is only distributed in a select few stores around the world and exclusively at Flâneurs in France.

The "20oz Secret Denim" is the most iconic denim at ONI. It is largely due to this fabric that the Japanese label has built its reputation among selvedge denim enthusiasts worldwide. If you have ever tried a selvedge denim heavier than 18oz, you would typically expect to have to break in the fabric for several weeks to achieve a minimum level of comfort.

One of the strengths of the Secret Denim is that, despite its 20oz weight, it offers a supple texture and a ribbed, slightly fluffy feel that is comfortable to wear from the first try-on.

First released in 2017 and again in 2020, this Black/Black version was reproduced for the third time in early 2023, making this model one of the rarest from the Japanese manufacturer.

This new batch is crafted from the very first produced version of Secret Black Denim, an exceptional fabric now unrepeatable, sourced from a legendary factory that has since disappeared. With the remaining rolls of fabric running out, we do not know when we will be able to place a new order for this model.

This type of fabric cannot be made on modern machines. Indeed, to produce this kind of fabric, looms known as "shuttle looms" are set to a very low tension level. This particular setting, called "low tension", literally shakes the machines during denim production. By combining this weaving technique with the use of a naturally irregular cotton yarn, the result is a denim even more textured than a classic "slub", with inherent suppleness and comfortable ease. However, due to the difficulty in mastering this technique, few manufacturers dare to attempt it, but ONI has succeeded in making a name for itself with a unique fabric whose quality is beyond question.

The 622 is a Relaxed Tapered cut, with a medium rise that fits snugly, followed by a comfortable thigh opening and a tapered leg from the knee down. This model is delivered in One Wash (treated with "Tempi"), washed once and then sun-dried in Japan, which sets the size while enhancing the unique texture of the fabric.