288ZR-BKBK 20oz "Secret Black Denim" Regular Straight

Jean ONI 288ZR-BK 20oz "Secret Black Denim" Regular Straight

• 100% US cotton / 20oz
• Deadstock Denim
• Regular Straight cut
• Unsanforized but treated with "Tempi" to set the size
• Weaving "Ultra Low Tension"
• Red and white selvedge ID
• Black sulfur-dyed weft and warp threads
• Rear pockets with hidden rivets
• Riveted stress points
• Enhanced belt loops
• Vegetable-tanned deer leather patch
• Made in Japan

ONI is a mysterious label behind which hides a true enthusiast who has devoted 60 years of his life to denim. Always in search of perfection, Oishi-san is in constant pursuit and dedicates himself solely to production. That is why you won't find any website or official Instagram page for the brand. It is also for this reason that the label is distributed only in a few shops around the world and exclusively at Flâneurs for France.

The "20oz Secret Denim" is the most iconic denim at ONI. It is largely thanks to this fabric that the Japanese label has built its reputation among selvedge denim enthusiasts worldwide. If you have ever tried a selvedge jean above 18oz, you would likely expect to need to break in the fabric for a few weeks before achieving a minimum level of comfort.

This is one of the strengths of the Secret Denim which, despite its 20oz thickness, offers a supple texture and a ribbed, slightly fluffy feel that is comfortable to wear right from the first try.

First introduced in 2017 and then in 2020, this Black/Black version was reproduced for the third time at the beginning of 2023, thus making this model one of the rarest from the Japanese manufacturer.

This new delivery is crafted from the very first version produced of the Secret Black Denim, an exceptional fabric that is now non-reproducible, coming from a legendary factory that has since disappeared. With the remaining rolls of fabric set to run out, we do not know when it will be possible to place a new order for this model.

This kind of fabric is impossible to manufacture on modern machines. Indeed, to produce this type of fabric, shuttle looms are set to a very low level of tension. This particular setting, called "low tension", literally shakes the machines during the denim production. Coupling this weaving technique with the use of cotton thread of naturally irregular thickness results in a denim even more textured than classic "slub" denim, with inherent flexibility and comfortable ease. However, due to the difficulty in mastering this technique, few manufacturers dare to attempt it, but ONI has excelled with a unique fabric whose quality is undisputed.

The 288 "Regular Straight" cut features a high waist, a deep rise, and a straight cut from the thigh to the leg opening, recalling the traditional straight cuts that have marked the history of denim. This model is delivered in One Wash, washed once and then sun-dried in Japan, thus setting the size while bringing out the depth of the indigo and the characteristic touch of what is known as "Slubby" fabric.