902ZR-KABEG "Secret Kabuki" 20oz High Rise Relaxed Tapered

ONI / 902ZR-KABEG "Secret Kabuki" 20oz High Rise Relaxed Tapered

To learn more about ONI and to help you sort through the offered cuts, you can click here :)

- 20oz "low tension" fabric / 100% cotton

- "Relaxed Tapered" fit

- Greencast Indigo

- Naturally beige weft thread

- Black/orange/green selvedge ID

- Coin pocket with "Peek-a-boo"

- Vegetable-tanned deer leather patch

- Copper rivets

- Chain stitch seams

- Naturally indigo dyed (Rope Dyed)

- Made in Japan

Oni is a mysterious label behind which hides a true enthusiast who has devoted 60 years of his life to denim. Always in pursuit of perfection, Oishi-san is constantly researching and focuses solely on production. This is why you will not find a website or an official Instagram page for the brand. It is also for this reason that the label is distributed in only a few shops around the world and exclusively at Flâneurs for France.

The "20oz Secret Denim" is the most iconic jeans at ONI. It is largely thanks to this fabric that the Japanese label has built its reputation among selvedge enthusiasts around the world. For this version of the Secret Denim, ONI has chosen to pay homage to Kabuki, a traditional Japanese theater with spectacular acting, often accompanied by dramatic makeup and staging. To do this, the pink selvedge ID usually found on the Secret Denim is here presented in the colors of Kabuki theater curtains: black, orange, and green.

Kabuki Theater in Kyoto

If you have already tried a selvedge jean above 18oz, you would certainly expect to have to break in the fabric for a few weeks before achieving a minimum level of comfort.

This is one of the strengths of the Secret Denim which, despite its 20oz thickness, offers a flexible texture and a slightly fluffy, ribbed feel, pleasant to wear from the first fitting.

This type of fabric is impossible to manufacture on modern machines. Indeed, to produce this type of fabric, shuttle looms are set to a very low tension level. This specific setting, called "low tension," literally makes the machines shake during the denim manufacturing. By coupling this weaving technique with the use of a cotton yarn of naturally irregular thickness, the result obtained is a denim even more textured than a classic "slub", with an inherent flexibility and comfortable ease. However, due to the difficulty in mastering this technique, few manufacturers risk it, but ONI has managed to make its mark with a unique fabric whose quality is beyond question.

Another distinctive feature of the Secret Denim is its unique color. To achieve this particular shade, the weft thread is dyed ("rope dye") in indigo and the weft thread is a cotton dyed in beige.

This results in a unique blue/green color that, over time, develops a patina unlike any other.

The 902ZR "High Rise Relaxed Tapered" is a contemporary fit, featuring a high, snug waist followed by a comfortable thigh opening and a tapered leg from the knee down. This model comes in One Wash, washed once and then sun-dried in Japan, which sets the size while bringing out the depth of the indigo and the characteristic feel of slubby fabrics.