ONI Jeans 20th Anniversary Collection

To celebrate the 20th anniversary of ONI, its founder Masao Oishi presents a new interpretation of the model that made the Demon brand famous: the 20oz Secret Denim.

This fabric played a major role in building the brand’s reputation among selvedge denim enthusiasts around the world. It’s also one of the most impressive denims we've come across, thanks to its promise of a unique evolution, rich in texture and tonal variations.

This kind of denim fabric is impossible to manufacture on modern machines. To produce it, shuttle looms are set at a very low tension. This low tension setting literally makes the machines shake during weaving. When this weaving technique is combined with the use of a naturally irregular yarn, the result is an even more textured fabric than classic slub denim. Few manufacturers attempt it, as it's a difficult technique to master.

This difference in texture also results in more interesting fades. The fading tends to become more pronounced vertically than horizontally. This vertical fading happens because indigo dyes wear off at different rates depending on the yarn thickness used to weave the denim. This vertical fading is known as Tate-Ochi, or “vertical drops,” in Japanese.

This limited edition comes in two denim variants. For both versions, the warp yarn (outer face) received multiple indigo dips to achieve a deep, nearly black hue. The difference lies in the weft yarn (interior), which is dyed in two different shades: one called "Olive-ish Gray" and the other "Moca."

For the "Olive-ish Gray," the result is a shade mixing gray and green tones that will gradually emerge as the denim evolves.

For the "Moca," the shade leans toward caramel, giving the denim a patina with warm tones.

For the occasion, the leather patch is embossed with "ONI 20th Anniversary".

The "pocket flasher" (tag attached to the back pocket) is also marked with "20th anniversary".

We received this version in one of the brand’s most popular fits thanks to its versatility: the 622. It’s a Relaxed Tapered cut, with a mid-rise waist that hugs the hips, a comfortable thigh opening, and a taper from the knee down to the leg opening.

This model is delivered in a One Wash version, washed once then sun-dried under the Japanese sky, which helps set the sizing while bringing out the unique slubby texture of the fabric.

Both models also come with a complimentary bandana featuring the “Demon” motif.

The meticulous construction ONI is known for is, of course, present: durable chain-stitching, riveted pockets, tucked belt loops, and hallmark details like the selvedge ID in the coin pocket with the classic "peek-a-boo," herringbone pocket bags dyed to match the interior tone, and the signature "leg twist" seam — a nod to vintage jeans.

As with most of the brand's models, this one fits relatively small. We recommend going up one size from your usual. To help you choose, please consult the size guide below.