Our collaboration with the legendary Japanese brand ONI Denim has just been delivered. We are very pleased to share with you the first images of this unique capsule.
The official launch is scheduled for August 13, 2025. Until then, we will regularly post new articles and images from the different photoshoots.
For this collaboration, we wanted to offer a fabric different from those usually used by the “Demon” brand, while preserving the characteristic texture that is ONI’s true signature.
A distinctive fabric with unique texture
Indigo-dyed leather patch on One Wash fabric
The fabric chosen for this project is a 1/3 twill weave made with:
- Warp: 8/1 triple-ply yarn, rope-dyed in indigo.
- Weft: 8/1 triple-ply yarn as well, but indigo-dyed using the cheese dyeing method.
Why these two methods are different
The rope dyeing method twists the yarn into a rope shape and quickly dips it repeatedly into indigo baths. The core of the yarn remains white, which allows the color to fade and develop nuanced shades more quickly over time.
Rope dyeing factory at Kuroki
Cheese dyeing (チーズ染め / chīzu zome) dyes the yarn already wound into a cylinder. This method allows the dye to penetrate more evenly, resulting in a more uniform and stable indigo color.
This photo clearly shows the process: cylindrical spools are immersed in a dye vat, with the dye circulating through the perforated cones to penetrate the yarn evenly from the outside in (or vice versa depending on the stage).
This combination — warp rope-dyed and weft cheese-dyed — gives the fabric a special texture: the highlights and depth of color subtly change depending on the light and wear.
This construction gives the fabric great durability while allowing it to gradually soften with washing. The pronounced twill texture and the tone-on-tone dyeing (indigo on indigo) create a deep and uniform visual effect.
In terms of weight, the fabric is equivalent to 12oz, close to the “Kiraku” model. As is often the case in Japanese textile craftsmanship, this figure is indicative: what matters here is the feel in hand and the behavior of the fabric when worn.
This close-up image allows a clearer view of the difference in shade between the rope-dyed and cheese-dyed threads. The BioWash treatment also enhances this contrast.
Detail of the coin pocket in Bio Wash fabric
Two fits, two treatments
ONI X Flâneurs 3X3 Indigo Twill One Wash
ONI X Flâneurs 3X3 Indigo Twill Bio Wash
This exclusive fabric comes in two different fits, which we will reveal soon, and also in two distinct treatments:
- One Wash: retains a dry feel and rigid texture, with a very dark indigo shade.
- Bio Wash: softer, with a brighter indigo tone that highlights the fabric’s texture.
No shrinkage is expected for either version.
Close-up on the One Wash fabric
Button on the One Wash
Indigo-dyed leather patch on Bio Wash — the treatment makes the demon mask almost invisible
Vintage copper rivet on the One Wash
We can’t wait to reveal this collaboration in full. See you on 07/13/2025 for the official release.
To be among the first to know, feel free to enter your email address via the links below:
ONI X Flâneurs 3X3 Indigo Twill One Wash
ONI X Flâneurs 3X3 Indigo Twill BioWash
We would also like to take this first opportunity to inform you that size 28 was not produced, as both models already fit quite small. For those who registered their email address indicating this size, you will still receive a notification email when the products go live.