3216S 15.5oz Raw Denim Type II Jacket

Omoto Denim 15.5oz Type II Raw Denim Jacket

• 100% cotton / 15.5oz
• Raw / Sanforized
• Textured slub denim
• Boxy fit
• 2 buttoned flap chest patch pockets
• 2 piped side pockets
• 2 interior pockets
• Iron buttons / Copper rivets
• Vegetable-tanned leather patch
• Reinforced hems and seams
• Made in Japan

"More Wear, More Wonderful" is the guiding principle followed by Omoto Denim, a young Japanese label founded by Hiroki Kishimoto, former General Manager of Japan Blue Jeans. By surrounding himself with some of Japan’s finest artisans, Omoto Denim aims to continue promoting Japanese denim craftsmanship while preserving the traditional know-how and techniques that built its reputation.

The Type II denim jacket is a historic model originally created in 1953. It differs from the Type I, the first denim jacket introduced in the early 1900s, through the addition of a second matching front pocket and the removal of the rear cinch back. It features a pronounced "boxy" fit, emphasized by the double pleats on the front. These stitched pleats were originally designed to prevent shrinkage or to accommodate weight gain by the wearer. With a simple cut of the stitches, it is possible to release the extra room created by these iconic pleats. The Type II has a straighter drape and a slightly shorter length that sits at the hips. This reinterpretation by Omoto Denim also includes two piped side pockets, sewn on the inside of the jacket to simultaneously create two interior pockets.

This 15.5oz denim, beneath its smooth and uniform appearance, reveals a subtle slub texture, recognizable by its natural irregularities. The warp yarns are made from a mix of long and short cotton fibers depending on the section, giving the fabric a rawer, more textured character, while the weft yarns, spun using the traditional “Gara-bo” method, provide an artisanal irregularity typical of the Omoto collection.

The warp yarns, rope-dyed with pure indigo, develop a deep blue shade that will gradually fade with wear, revealing sharp contrasts and pronounced vertical fading effects enhanced by the slubs and neps. The fabric is woven at low tension on a vintage Toyoda GL8 automatic loom from the 1950s, giving it a dense and durable texture. This model is offered in its raw, unwashed state to preserve its inherent rigidity. It is nevertheless sanforized, stabilizing the sizing while maintaining the natural hand and raw texture of the cotton.

In terms of finishes and reinforcements, the button placket features original embossed metal buttons, and stress points are reinforced with copper rivets. The overall construction reflects the high standards of Japanese craftsmanship and Omoto Denim’s commitment to producing robust, authentic, and timeless garments.