288ZR-KABEG "Secret Kabuki" 20oz Regular Straight

ONI / 288ZR-KABEG "Secret Kabuki" 20oz Regular Straight

To learn more about ONI and to help you sort through the offered cuts, you can click here :)

- 20oz "low tension" fabric / 100% cotton

- "Regular Straight" cut

- Greencast Indigo

- Naturally beige weft thread

- Black/orange/green selvedge ID

- Coin pocket with "Peek-a-boo"

- Vegetable tanned deer leather patch

- Copper rivets

- Chain stitch construction

- Natural indigo dyed (Rope Dyed)

- Made in Japan

Oni is a mysterious label led by a true enthusiast who has dedicated 60 years of his life to denim. Always in pursuit of perfection, Oishi-san constantly seeks improvement and dedicates himself solely to production. This is why you won't find a website or an official Instagram page for the brand. This is also why the label is only distributed in a few stores around the world and exclusively at Flâneurs for France.

The "20oz Secret Denim" is the most iconic jeans at ONI. It is largely thanks to this fabric that the Japanese label has built its reputation among selvedge enthusiasts worldwide. In this version of Secret Denim, ONI chose to pay tribute to Kabuki, a traditional Japanese theater known for its spectacular acting, makeup, and staging. Thus, the pink selvedge ID usually found on Secret Denim is presented here in the colors of Kabuki theater curtains: black, orange, and green.

Kyoto Kabuki Theater

If you have already tried a selvedge jean above 18oz, you will likely expect to have to break in the fabric for a few weeks before achieving a minimum level of comfort.

This is one of the strengths of Secret Denim which, despite its 20oz thickness, offers a supple texture and a slightly fuzzy, ribbed touch that is comfortable to wear from the first fitting.

This kind of fabric is impossible to manufacture on modern machines. Indeed, to produce this type of fabric, shuttle looms are set at a very low level of tension. This specific setting, called "low tension", literally shakes the machines during the manufacturing of the denim. By combining this weaving technique with the use of a naturally irregular cotton thread, the result is a denim even more textured than a traditional "slub", with inherent suppleness and comfortable relaxation. However, due to the difficulty in mastering this technique, few manufacturers take the risk, but ONI has made a mark with a unique fabric whose quality is beyond question.

Another distinctive feature of Secret Denim is its unmatched color. To achieve this unique shade, the weft thread is dyed ("rope dye") in indigo and the weft thread is a cotton dyed in beige.

This results in a unique blue/green hue that, over time, develops a patina unlike any other.

The 288 "Regular Straight" cut features a high waist, a deep rise, and a straight fit from the thigh to the leg opening, reminiscent of the traditional straight cuts that have marked the history of denim. This model is delivered in One Wash, washed once then sun-dried in Japan, which sets the size while bringing out the depth of the indigo and the characteristic feel of the so-called "Slubby" fabrics.