"SURE MFG" 1940s USN Trousers Vat Dye Olive

XX Development "SURE MFG" 40's USN Vat Dye Olive Trousers

• 100% cotton
• SURE 1610 cotton twill
• Pre-washed by us to prevent any shrinkage
• VAT dye sulfur Olive dye
• Slightly loose straight fit
• 2 side pockets
• 2 back patch pockets
• Hand-lacquered iron buttons
• 100% cotton seams
• Made in Japan

The Japanese label XX Development offers with its "SURE MFG" range meticulous, small-scale production, drawing inspiration from vintage models that have shaped today's fashion landscape. The story of SURE MFG, just like the details that make up their clothing, comes from vintage American models that were thoroughly studied in order to reproduce them as faithfully as possible.

The 40's USN Trousers are a faithful and demanding reinterpretation of the American navy utility trousers from the 1940s. Resulting from a meticulous study of a vintage model, these trousers embody a balance between military heritage and contemporary outlook. It demonstrates an obsessive approach to detail, characteristic of the brand.

The expertise and meticulosity known to XX Development are evident in the fabric used for these trousers. Analysis of the original fabric revealed a 16 warp thread and a 10 weft thread, along with an unusual weaving angle, originally intended to compensate for the fabric's torsion when it shrinks after washing. To come as close as possible to the original fabric, XX Development created a twill named SURE 1610 TWILL, made from a naturally ecru Kibata cotton, woven as is, without any treatment or transformation.

The olive sulfur dye is achieved through VAT Dye, a vintage method of vat dyeing, while the steel buttons are hand-painted and riveted in the old-fashioned way. The threads used in the seams, 100% cotton, were custom dyed to blend seamlessly into the fabric.

Every construction detail is a masterful nod to military tradition: lap seams, crotch reinforcement, deliberately offset belt loops, and double-stitched, reinforced yet not rigid pockets, a deliberate and accepted fragility.

The cut is structured and thought out in every proportion: perfectly maintained waist, straight legs with a subtle amplitude at the thighs and a smooth, straight fall to the hem.