ONI Denim 900HM-60XX 12oz Handmade Wide Straight

The 900HM-60XX is ONI Denim's distinctive interpretation of vintage American jeans. It combines the roomy, straight 900 Wide Straight fit with a new 12oz 60XX selvedge denim inspired by American denim from the 1960s. Relatively lightweight by ONI standards, it nevertheless retains the irregular character associated with the brand, with a slightly grainy surface and a more subtle texture than its most heavily textured fabrics. This edition also stands out for its HM – Handmade construction, using deliberately traditional manufacturing methods to recreate the spirit of jeans made using older machinery.

Features

• 100% cotton / 12oz
• One Wash / Pre-washed to minimize shrinkage
• Fabric inspired by 1960s American denim
• Irregular, slightly rough texture
• “HM – Handmade” construction
• Traditional construction primarily using a single-needle sewing machine
• Z-shaped bar tacks
• Metal rivets set using a traditional two-step process
• Belt loops constructed using the so-called “Banzai Loop” method
• Leather patch sewn in a single pass
• Button fly
• Made in Japan

Description

With the 60XX fabric, ONI Denim deliberately moves away from the heavyweight, dramatically textured denims that have played such an important role in establishing its reputation. Its development takes inspiration from a 12.5oz American denim from the 1960s, reinterpreted here as a 12oz Japanese selvedge denim.

Lighter and relatively supple, this fabric nevertheless retains the irregular, slightly grainy surface characteristic of ONI's approach to denim. Its texture is intentionally more understated than that of Secret Denim or the brand's most heavily slubbed fabrics, giving the 60XX an appearance closer to vintage denim while retaining a distinctive character that can immediately be felt to the touch.

Another defining feature of the 900HM-60XX lies in its construction. The HM – Handmade designation refers to the use of deliberately traditional manufacturing methods, with the jeans primarily assembled using a single-needle sewing machine. In doing so, ONI recreates some of the techniques used before modern industrial sewing machines and chain-stitch construction became widespread.

This approach extends to the smallest details: Z-shaped bar tacks, traditionally set rivets, distinctive belt-loop construction and a leather patch sewn in a single pass. Once completed, the jeans are also washed using natural water from Myōkō, Japan, before being left to dry naturally in the sun.

Finally, the 60XX denim has been announced as a one-time production, developed specifically for this series. A choice that further emphasizes the distinctive character of this model within the ONI Denim collection.

Fit & Sizing

The 900 Wide Straight is one of the roomiest silhouettes offered by ONI Denim. It features a relatively high rise, plenty of room through the seat and thighs, followed by a wide leg that maintains its volume down to the hem.

This model comes One Wash, meaning that the majority of the fabric's initial shrinkage has already occurred. We recommend choosing your usual size to maintain the intended balance and volume of the fit. As is often the case with ONI Denim, slight measurement variations may occur from one pair to another; we therefore recommend referring to the size guide available on the product page.

Why We Selected It

The 900HM-60XX showcases a particularly interesting side of ONI Denim's expertise. Rather than relying on weight or an especially dramatic texture, the brand focuses here on the details that gave vintage American jeans their distinctive character: a relatively lightweight fabric, deliberately traditional construction and a multitude of subtle manufacturing details that reveal themselves upon closer inspection.

We also particularly appreciate the combination of this vintage-oriented approach with the 900 Wide Straight fit. Its generous, contemporary proportions bring an interesting balance to the design, allowing ONI to create a jean deeply inspired by the 1960s without turning it into a historical reproduction. A distinctive piece within the brand's collection, made all the more interesting by the fact that the 60XX denim was developed specifically for this production.