03517 Ishikawadai 15oz Old Design Jacket

ONI DENIM / 03517 Ishikawadai 15oz Old Design Jacket

• 100% cotton / 15oz
• One Wash / Pre-washed to prevent shrinkage
• Boxy fit, similar to Type II jacket
• Low-tension weaving
• Natural indigo dye
• Warp yarn (outer): Indigo Greencast
• Weft yarn (inner): natural
• Selvedge denim with pink ID
• Chain-stitched seams
• "Donut" buttons with Oni branding
• Copper rivets
• Vegetable-tanned leather patch
• Woven and made in Japan

Oni is a mysterious label led by a true denim enthusiast who has devoted over 60 years of his life to the craft. Constantly striving for perfection, Oishi-san focuses exclusively on production. This is why you won’t find an official website or Instagram page for the brand. It is also why the label is only available in select stores worldwide, and exclusively at Flâneurs in France.

Made from 15oz fabric, the "Ishikawadai" is crafted using cotton spun on a Japanese Ishikawadai machine, the oldest of its kind, dating back to 1953. Unlike modern machines, the Ishikawadai spins cotton at a much slower speed—around 30% of modern machines—which preserves the integrity of the fiber and gives the fabric a natural appearance. The result is similar to hand-spun yarn, with subtle variations in thickness and a textured, slubby feel.

Another distinctive feature of this model is that it is woven with the same cotton as Oni’s famous Secret Denim. Its unique color comes from combining a warp yarn dyed in Greencast indigo, with green/blue undertones, and a beige weft yarn. This, combined with low-tension shuttle weaving on a 1950s machine, produces a patina unlike any other.

In terms of design, the ０３５１７–Ishikawadai stands out from traditional denim jackets by combining a boxy fit, typical of classic workwear jackets, with functional details borrowed from coveralls. It is inspired by a jacket made by an anonymous American brand in the 1940s, during World War II. The cuffs are also finished in a coverall style, reinforcing its utilitarian DNA and roots in traditional workwear garments.

Fit Notes: This model runs smaller than other Oni jackets. We recommend sizing up one from your usual size. The denim is unsanforized but one-washed, so no shrinkage is expected.