ONI Denim 288 Asphalt Denim 20oz Regular Straight

True to its unique approach to Japanese denim, ONI Denim presents the Asphalt Denim, a particularly textured 20oz fabric developed using the same yarns as the renowned Secret Denim, but woven using a completely different process. Woven at very low tension on shuttle looms, this denim combines an extremely pronounced slubby appearance with a distinctive neppy texture. Rigid and rough when new, it is designed to evolve quickly with wear and develop a particularly rich patina.

Features

• 100% cotton / 20oz
• Very low-tension weave
• Thick and rigid denim
• Slubby and neppy texture
• Dyed with natural indigo
• Dark Indigo warp yarn
• Naturally beige weft yarn
• Red selvedge ID
• Back pockets with hidden rivets
• Riveted stress points
• Vegetable-tanned sheep leather patch
• One Wash
• Made in Japan

Description

ONI Denim is a particularly mysterious Japanese label built around the work of Oishi-san, a denim enthusiast who has devoted his expertise to developing increasingly distinctive fabrics for several decades. The brand stands apart through an approach entirely focused on materials and craftsmanship, without traditional marketing or an official website. This artisanal philosophy and deliberately limited production have helped make ONI one of the most sought-after labels among Japanese denim enthusiasts.

With the Asphalt Denim, ONI offers a 20oz fabric with an exceptionally strong character. The same yarns used for the renowned Secret Denim are woven here using a different process to achieve a radically different texture. The fabric has an extremely slubby surface, marked by numerous irregularities and thick neps created by the weft yarn. These small clusters of fibres, visible across the surface of the denim, contribute to its snow-like appearance and exceptional texture.

To achieve this result, the shuttle looms are set to an exceptionally low tension. This weaving method deliberately gives the yarns more freedom, resulting in irregularities that can sometimes be particularly pronounced throughout the fabric. Variations that might be considered defects in an industrial fabric are fully embraced here and form one of the signatures of ONI's work.

Particularly rigid and rough when new, the Asphalt Denim can be surprising at first touch. This initial rigidity quickly gives way to greater flexibility with wear. The low-tension weave allows the fabric to gradually relax and become more comfortable while retaining its distinctive texture. Its Dark Indigo base and naturally brown reverse also offer particularly interesting fading potential, with contrasts that should gradually reveal the full richness of its texture.

The jeans are delivered in One Wash, having undergone an initial wash before being put on the market. This treatment stabilizes the sizing while preserving the fabric's raw character and highly distinctive texture.

Fit

The 288 features a Regular Straight fit, characterized by a high rise, a deep front rise and a straight leg from the thigh through to the hem. Its proportions are reminiscent of traditional straight-cut American jeans, with a balanced volume that allows the richness of the denim to fully express itself.

Why we selected it

For its exceptionally textured denim and the radically artisanal approach that defines ONI Denim. With its 20oz weight, very low-tension weave and unique combination of slubby and neppy textures, the Asphalt Denim is one of those fabrics that reveals itself as much through wear as through discovery. Its One Wash construction allows you to enjoy its character immediately while offering a glimpse of particularly spectacular fading potential. A piece made for enthusiasts of the most distinctive Japanese denims.