ONI X Flâneurs 3X3 インディゴツイル BioWash

Developed as part of our first collaboration with ONI Denim, this BioWash version pairs our exclusive Indigo x Indigo 3x3 twill with a generous and comfortable Wide Straight fit. Woven entirely from triple-ply yarns and combining two distinct indigo-dyeing techniques, this approximately 12oz fabric undergoes an enzymatic wash that softens the material while revealing a brighter shade of indigo from the very first wear. It offers a more relaxed interpretation of our collaboration with ONI, centred around comfort, volume and the evolving character of the fabric.

Details

• Exclusive ONI Denim x Flâneurs collaboration
• 100% cotton / Approximately 12oz
• BioWash / Enzyme-washed for a softer hand and subtly aged appearance
• Wide Straight fit
• 3x3 twill fabric
• 8/1 triple-ply warp and weft yarns
• Indigo x Indigo colour
• Indigo Rope-Dyed warp
• Indigo Cheese-Dyed weft
• Indigo-dyed leather patch
• Custom-branded ONI buttons and rivets
• ONI tag stitched onto the right back pocket
• Chain-stitched construction
• Tonal stitching
• Meticulously crafted in Japan for Flâneurs

Description

For our first collaboration with ONI Denim, we wanted to move away from the fabrics for which the manufacturer is best known while retaining one of its defining characteristics: a lively, highly textured material designed to evolve significantly over time. The result is this approximately 12oz 3x3 twill, developed in a deep Indigo x Indigo shade and woven entirely from 8/1 cotton yarn made from three strands twisted together (triple ply).

What makes this fabric particularly distinctive lies as much in its construction as in the way its yarns are dyed. The warp, which predominantly forms the outer face of the fabric, is dyed using the traditional Rope Dyeing method. Bundles of yarn are formed into ropes before being repeatedly immersed in indigo baths and exposed to air for oxidation. The indigo primarily colours the surface of the cotton while leaving a lighter core, allowing increasingly pronounced contrasts to emerge through wear.

The weft uses the same 8/1 triple-ply yarn but is dyed using a different process: Cheese Dyeing (チーズ染め / chīzu zome). Here, the yarn is dyed after being wound onto cylindrical packages, allowing the dye to penetrate the fibres more evenly. This produces a more uniform and stable indigo colour whose evolution differs from that of the rope-dyed warp.

It is precisely the interaction between these two processes that gives the fabric its distinctive character. As the garment is worn and washed, the warp and weft will not evolve at exactly the same rate: the contrasts gradually created by Rope Dyeing develop against the deeper, more uniform colour achieved through Cheese Dyeing. The 3x3 weave and triple-ply yarns further enhance the fabric's texture while providing strength and structure.

Unlike the One Wash version, this iteration undergoes a BioWash treatment. This enzymatic process acts on the surface fibres of the cotton, reducing its initial rawness and giving the fabric a noticeably softer hand from the very first wear. It also creates a subtle and even patina across the indigo, highlighting the texture of the weave and giving the blue a brighter appearance. The fabric therefore retains its distinctive character and potential to evolve while offering immediate comfort and a gently worn-in appearance.

Fit & sizing

To complement the softer and more relaxed character of this BioWash version, we chose a fit closely related to the 200 Wide Straight, one of the most popular ONI silhouettes in our selection. Its high rise leads into a generous thigh and a straight leg that maintains its volume all the way to the hem. Inspired by vintage workwear jeans, these generous proportions create a strong silhouette without feeling excessive. Combined with the softened hand of the BioWash fabric, the fit offers excellent comfort from the very first wear while retaining enough structure to maintain a clean shape.

Why we selected it

Once again, it would be more accurate to speak of creation rather than selection. While the One Wash version emphasises the deep, almost refined character of our Indigo x Indigo twill, we wanted to explore another side of the same fabric. The combination of BioWash and the Wide Straight fit noticeably changes its expression: the indigo appears brighter, the texture becomes immediately visible and the fabric feels considerably softer. The result is a more generous and relaxed silhouette with echoes of vintage Japanese workwear, while remaining remarkably easy to incorporate into a contemporary wardrobe.