266-CCD 15oz Relaxed Straight Kabuki Crushed Concrete Denim

Jean ONI 15oz Kabuki Crushed Concrete Denim Relax Straight

• Material: 100% American cotton
• Weight: 15oz (medium)
• One Wash (pre-washed)
• Relax Straight cut
• Black/orange/green selvedge ID
• Chain stitch seams
• Hidden rivets at back pockets
• Universal branded rivets and buttons ONI
• Vegetable tanned sheep leather patch
• Woven and made in Japan

ONI is a mysterious label behind which hides a true enthusiast who has devoted 60 years of his life to denim. Always in pursuit of perfection, Oishi-san is perpetually exploring and dedicates himself solely to production. This is why you will find neither a website nor an official Instagram page for the brand. This is also why the label is only distributed in a few stores around the world and only at Flâneurs for France.

Now becoming an iconic fabric of the Japanese label, the Crushed Concrete Denim is based on the Secret Super Rough but revisited in a lighter 15oz version made from the same warp and weft yarns, thus achieving the typical slub and neppy texture. For this version of the Crushed Concrete Denim, ONI has chosen to pay tribute to Kabuki, a traditional Japanese theater with spectacular acting, often accompanied by dramatic makeup and staging. For this, the usual pink selvedge ID is presented in the colors of Kabuki theater curtains: black, orange, and green.

This type of fabric cannot be produced on modern machines, as the shuttle looms must be set to very low tension to create this fabric. This low tension, called "low tension", literally makes the machines vibrate during the denim's manufacturing. Combining this weaving technique with the use of naturally irregular yarns makes the fabric even more textured than a classic slub. However, few manufacturers dare to venture into this technique because it is difficult to master.

The Japanese "Tempi" treatment (a wash and sun drying) also adds character to the fabric and makes it more comfortable, while significantly reducing the risk of shrinkage typically seen with non-sanforized fabrics like this one. Here, as the cotton yarns are finer than those used in the Secret Super Rough Denim, the indigo dye is slightly darker and more intense, which will allow for more pronounced fading over time with wear and washing.

The 266 corresponds to the Relax Straight cut, one of the widest cuts offered by ONI. The very high rise and generous back yoke are followed by a wide straight leg, from thigh to ankle. This model is delivered in One Wash, washed once and then dried under the Japanese sun, thus setting the size while bringing out the depth of the indigo and the characteristic feel of slubby fabrics.