246CCD-MOCA 15oz Neat Straight "Moca" Crushed Concrete Denim

ONI 15oz Neat Straight Moca Crushed Concrete Denim

• 100% American cotton / 15oz
• Pre-washed to prevent shrinkage
• Fitted straight cut / High waist
• Indigo / Moca dye
• Black/orange/green selvedge ID
• Chain stitch seams
• Hidden rivets at back pockets
• Universal branded rivets and buttons ONI
• Vegetable-tanned sheep leather patch
• Woven and made in Japan

ONI is a mysterious label, behind which hides a true enthusiast who has dedicated 60 years of his life to denim. Always in pursuit of perfection, Oishi-san is constantly innovating and focuses solely on production. That's why you won't find a website or an official Instagram page for the brand. This is also why the label is only distributed in a few stores around the world and exclusively at Flâneurs for France. For this reissue of the Crushed Concrete, the brand offers a Moca version that incorporates the typical "greencast" indigo dye for the warp (outer thread), paired with a coppery "Moca" dye for the weft (inner thread).

Now an iconic fabric of the Japanese label, the Crushed Concrete is based on the Secret Super Rough, reimagined in a lighter 15oz version using the same warp and weft threads, thus achieving the typical slub and neppy texture. For this version of Crushed Concrete, ONI chose to pay homage to Kabuki, a traditional Japanese theater with spectacular acting, often accompanied by dramatic makeup and staging. For this, the usual pink selvedge ID is presented in the colors of Kabuki theater curtains: black, orange, and green.

This type of fabric cannot be produced on modern machines, as the shuttle looms need to be set to very low tension to create this fabric. This low tension, known as "low tension", literally makes the machines vibrate during the denim production. By combining this weaving technique with the use of a naturally irregular yarn, the fabric becomes even more textured than a classic slub. However, few manufacturers dare to venture into this method, as it is difficult to master.

The Japanese "Tempi" treatment (sun washing and drying) also adds character to the fabric and makes it more comfortable, while significantly reducing the risk of shrinkage typically seen in unsanforized fabrics like this one. Additionally, fabrics woven at low tension often experience significant relaxation, quickly gaining flexibility and comfort.

The 246 corresponds to the Neat Straight cut, a fitted straight jean with a comfortable high waist, a good rear lift, and thigh ease that extends down the leg for an overall straight drop.